One of the first things that stands out as trend forecaster Lidewij
Edelkoort presents her
in the Vrije Universiteit of Amsterdam,
is that for one she is not dressed in black. She had swapped her ‘uniform’
of a loose fitting black dress for a transparent example bearing a print.
On her feet glitter sandals adorned with sequins.
“The gate has been blown off the dam since I present the manifesto for the
first time,” says Edelkoort. “I never expected it, but 95 percent of the
reactions I have received and read online are all positive. People say to
me: ‘I am so happy that you have said it, because I feel the same, but I
don’t dare to say it because I am stuck in the system.’ Apparently I have
translated what everyone is feeling well.”
According to the trend forecaster the fashion system
managed to twisted itself shut. There is no room for innovation anymore,
something which Edelkoort is “very concerned about.’ In addition the
educational system, fashion labels, designers, marketing teams – “that
makes me the angriest because marketing has killed fashion” – catwalk
shows, journalists, retailers as well as the consumer are to blame.
Trends for autumn/winter 2016 and 2017 according to Li Edelkoort
Although fashion is dead, Edelkoort still presents her vision for autumn
and winter collections for 2016 and 2017. FashionUnited selected a few
practical tips from the trend forecaster to share with its readers.
“For the first time in twenty years, brown is making a come back. For
example, at the moment it is close to impossible to buy a pair of brown
shoes or bag. Next year there will be a lot of brown tones being combined
with grey, so we can get used to it. The color apparently need a long time
One of the trends for winter next year will revolve around anarchism, where
people will deck themselves with, amongst other things tattoos. “If you
analysis the clothing, it is actually quite traditional: tweed jackets and
pleated skirts. Also lots of plaid. This trend is also taking it time to
return, as we come out of a very long floral period.”
“We are going to see a belt moment. Pay attention to it, because a lot of
money can be made in belts.”
4. White collars “I for see the comeback of the white collar. I already saw it at Comme des
Garçons. It will be about the oversized, stiff, white collar.”
5. Back packs
“It remains the ‘it’ bag.”
Edelkoort sees a lot of inspiration taken from blankets and quilts in
activewear. Not only will there be jackets to curl up into, but also many
She also foresees a lot layering occurring within activewear. Think body
warmers worn over shorts and leggings.
Colors are not shiny any more, but matt. In addition she sees ‘colors that
hurt,’ for example bright coral red with grey.
9. Shoe laces
“A huge trend,” says Edelkoort, “will be brightly coloured woven laces.”
Originally written by Yasmine Esser, translated and edited by Vivian