Gucci closes its "love trilogy" with its collaborators turned models

With an “epilogue” chapter turned into an “overture”, a 12-hour live
stream and with the closest collaborators of Alessandro Michele, the
house’s creative director, turned into campaign models. This is how last
Friday the Italian firm Gucci finally presented, as part of the Milan
Digital Fashion Week, the latest collection by the Italian designer.

The collection was presented to the world under the title “Epilogue”,
which was the end of the “love trilogy” that Michele had been developing
until now, as well as the first point of departure and the “opening” of the
new stage that is now beginning within the famous Florentine firm. A new
era that arrives with the clear intention of continuing to subvert and
transgress the traditional roles and barriers that have prevailed until now
in the fashion industry, and which Gucci will use to further emphasize the
creativity and unique character of its garments. To this end, Gucci is
using measures such as separating its presentations from the traditional
Fashion Weeks, and betting on contrasting threads of argument based on its
own historical heritage, as well as on timeless collections that also allow
it to promote a new model that is more sustainable and committed, both
ethically and environmentally. Decisions with which he simply follows the
precepts of this script based on “rhapsodies and symphonies” that Michele
himself has been in charge of composing as a foundation for this new era of
the Italian house.

“The collection, in short, is the end of the experiment I started”, “in an
attempt to use fashion as a space, specifically as an experimental
laboratory. And this has been my experiment”, explained Alessandro Michele
himself during the streaming that has served as the presentation of this
“Epilogue” collection. “Narrating it this way, presenting it this way, to
the press, to the world”, added the designer, “throwing shit inside the
process of creating the advertising campaign like a voyeur, I find it
interesting as an element capable of dissociating the narrative from
fashion and taking it beyond the shows”.

An epilogue to the “overture” of the new Gucci era

As for the highlights of this “Epilogue” collection, Michele explained that
the designs once again draw on the house’s own artistic heritage, a source
of continuous inspiration for its proposals. On this occasion and in a
special way, his point of origin is the aesthetics of his collections from
the 70s.

“The period of greatest liberation, which I experienced when I was still a
child, was the 1970s,” explained Michele. The period of greatest
liberation, which I experienced when I was still a child, was the 1970s”,
explained Michele. These were years that “were really the golden years of
the brand I work for”; and to which “I keep coming back because, for me
personally, they meant the real seed of change”. Michele mentioned this
revolution, and it seems that the designer will now reformulate it under
his own terms, according to principles that will rebuild the foundations of
the company, evolving towards an era in which it will gradually move away
from fast-fashion practices that have infected almost all companies in the
luxury fashion sector. A process for which this “Epilogue” collection is
the prologue.

Thus, after the first two “chapters” of his “love trilogy”, “Epilogue”
finally arrives “to close the trilogy”, as a new exercise in which “the
clothes will be worn by those who have created them. The designers with
whom, every day, I share the dizzying process of creation”, and who become
“the performers of this new story”. “It is a process, once again, of role
reversal”, Michele continues, in which “the distance is shortened” and “the
creative act becomes part of the exhibition itself”, in which “the inner
part of the project comes out” and “the invisible takes shape”. “This time
my analysis of the mechanisms that govern the world of fashion is
intensified”, by offering the presentation “from an unusual perspective” as
it turned out to be that 12-hour live streaming, with which “anyone can
investigate what the whole process is like in which Gucci’s design office
creates the new advertising campaign”.

Designers and collaborators as models

This “third episode” of the experiment developed by Alessandro Michele,
constitutes the continuation of that first act that took place in February,
in which the designer turned his gaze to show the liturgy that is hidden
behind the scenes of a fashion show. And from that second act, held in May,
in which the designer gave up his role as creative director so that the
models themselves could build their own image, acting as photographers,
storytellers, producers and set designers for the Italian firm’s “The
Ritual” advertising campaign. A change of roles to which he now gives a new
impulse, turning the designers and collaborators of Gucci’s “ready to wear”
line into campaign and image models for this collection.

“My three-part story wants to generate a questioning of the rules, roles
and functions that are usually developed in the fashion world,” added
Michele throughout a series of notes made with myths of this last
presentation. It is, therefore, “an inevitable investigation, intentionally
deformed”; “a game of imbalances with which I try to dismantle the
scaffolding” that holds the industry together, “turning it upside down and
looking around, to challenge that grammar with which we try to put a name
to the mystery of beauty”. “It was necessary for me to follow that path,”
Michelle notes. “A path that, as I walked, made me ask new questions,
stirring me up and generating new intuitions”. “In that sense, the epilogue
I give you today really feels like an overture. “Like a river that closes
and opens at the same time, the limit that marks the new beginning from
which we will try to imagine our tomorrow”.

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.ES,
translated and edited to English.

Photo Credits: Gucci

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